Ep. 3: The One From Nowhere to Not Quite Somewhere

Day 3 YHA Black Sail to Rothswaite

Waking up in the middle of tranquillity is wonderful – no vehicles, no noisy ravens at 4.30am, just the sound of occasional voices as people emerged from their rooms. What would today’s breakfast be like, we wondered – here, in the most “off-grid” place we’d be staying at?

It turned out – it was really good! Cereals and juice and toast and the usual bacon and egg. If the coffee wasn’t up to much (instant, of course) that was quite understandable. Then a chance to sit in the warming sun, watching the light play on the hills all around, while finishing off coffees.

All too soon it was time to start the day’s climb. The rather steep initial ascent up was aided by the rock slabs carefully put in place to act as steps. In an hour we were at the top, at Grey Knotts,  and for the next couple of hours we followed a gentle up and then down trail across the moorland. Our way was marked by numerous small cairns of stones, not really needed on such a fine and clear day but undoubtedly would been a major help in cloudy or misty conditions.

Behind us we could dee Ennerdale Water, far below and in the distance, while on our left was another Lake District lake, Buttermere. Striding across the plateau was the most wonderful feeling!

The path dropped down towards Honister and its still-operating slate mines, where we endured a fairly steep descent to the road at Honister Pass.

The rest of the way was largely on a track which shadowed the road down to Seatoller village and on to Longthwaite, where we stumbled across the Borrowdale YHA. As it was not long after lunchtime, this proved to be  a lucky find – a chance to sit in comfy seats enjoying a proper coffee and later a beer, whiling away time until we could  go to our B&B at Rothsthwaite (which didn’t open until 4pm).

Yew Craggs B&B was superb! Each room was spacious, light and airy, and our host very friendly.

Dinner was at the local pub, a pleasant 5 minute walk along the quiet road. Around us lay the green valley and steep hills of the Rothswaite area.

Distance: 15km/9 miles