06 June – Glenridding to Shap
Today was The Day – the longest (26km/18 miles) and highest (up to 784m) of the entire Coast to Coast Walk. It’s fair to say we awoke with some degree of trepidation about the day ahead. We’d organized an early breakfast – along with several of our fellow guests, who were also doing the same walk. All too soon, it was time to put on the shoes. And there was no messing about, as after Patterdale village it was straight into the climb.
Fortunately, the weather gods were kind to us, and laid on a cloudy start – ideal for climbing. (And who would have thought we’d be complaining about too much sun in the Lake District?). As we ascended we could look back towards Ullswater, and further up we got to Boredale Hause, a level grassy “Base Camp of Everest” where we could enjoy views – Helvellyn and St Sunday Crag where Peter had walked the day before.
Continuing our ascent, we crested a saddle to see the scalloped shoreline of Angle tarn, nestles in a mountainous bowl. It was simply superb, a stunning view that engrossed us for some time.
But we weren’t alone. The Stickmen came past us and strode off into the distance, but were replaced behind us by “Captain Decibel and his posse”, a loud and incessantly-talking North American and two women. Much of the rest of the day was spent trying to evade him, a bit like Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid trying to stay one step ahead of their pursuing posse. This was difficult because we could hear him for quite some distance. As far as we could tell, he never stopped talking, regardless of how steep the slope. In one way it was quite an act…
The gradient levelled off now and led us up. Our next objective was Kidsty Pike, the aforementioned 784m height, a reasonably-gentle slope. At 12.08pm our heroes summited the peak. In the traditions of Hillary and Tenzing, we unfurled our celebratory Kendal Mint cake (a very sweet mint-flavoured sugar bar apparently eaten on the ascent to Everest). The views were panoramic, a real 360 degree vista of hills and peaks and – below us- Haweswater lake. And the sun came out!
Above – Kidsty Pike. Below – triumph!
Then it was time to descend some 450m.
If we thought the ascent was steep, the descent was worse, involving feet, hands and occasional bums. Some parts were ok but others were not so… though at least we could see views out and across Haweswater. Our progress was hastened by the ever-present drawl of Captain Decibel, echoing around the fells behind us.
Eventually we got to the lake – actually a reservoir created decades ago to provide water to Manchester.
Haweswater would accompany us for the next 5km, glinting away to our right. We’d been led to believe the path, on the northern side of the lake, would be pretty rough, but in fact apart from an initial up-and-down it was actually quite reasonable, and got better as we neared the dam at the eastern end.
The fourth and last stage of the day was our 8km “easy” walk across farmland to Shap, our destination for the night. The contrast with the pikes and fells, and the ensuing farmland, couldn’t have been more extreme. We say “easy” because, by that point, we were all comprehensively tired, and our pace slowed still further. Even the remains of Shap Abbey failed to stir any enthusiasm.
Finally we got to Shap, around 6.20pm – some 10 hours after leaving Glenridding – and the New Ing Lodge. Oh bliss, oh joy! Even more so because it actually had a small bar, and we all collapsed gratefully into a corner to have a refreshing drink.
Pure joy was somewhat tempered when firstly we learned there was (temporarily) no hot water, and then to find the local recommended pub to eat at was (temporarily) closed due to “unforeseen kitchen circumstances” (interesting suggestions as to what this means, on a postcard please!). Fortunately, we met a very helpful passer-by who happened to be the bartender at the next pub down the road called “The Greyhound” – rather ironic given our condition! He very kindly phoned ahead and booked ahead to ensure there’s be a table for us – and when we got there, the meal wasn’t disappointing.
So it was that our heroes “walked” back to the New Ing Lodge and our comfy beds.
Distance today: 26km/17 miles
Saints to Outlaws 
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